Advanced search FAQ Register Login

It is currently Tue Jan 23, 2018 12:31 am

 

Postby big mean bunny » Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:39 pm

Hi all

been messing around with a raspberry pi 1 someone at work gave me, loving the thing and despite being a creative media type (so not a computer illiterate I mean) I have never been great at 'proper IT'. Anyway got retropie going on it and even upgraded from the early version I had when I first built it to the most recent. Got everything running although Mame is being a bit gimpy but got some stuff going and reading up on sorting the rest etc.

Now I am looking to turn my pie into a proper arcade/joystick. Not just for authentic controls but because the missus is sick of it trailing across the floor!

I had planned to try and have a go at housing it all in a Hori Tekken xbox 360 wireless stick I got off gumtree that was in a bit of a sorry state and that never worked properly, had a look inside as the lad had changed it to sanwa buttons and an 8 way stick but his soldiering was a mess and I am awful at soldering and heavy handed and ended up making it worse!

Now my question! I was going to order the zero delay, however the actual stick I have I had hoped to use, however it's got an 8 hole pin connector on it - that 4 pairs of cables go to. Where as everything I seem to see for the zero delay is 5 pin?

Can anyone help me or advise me please? Can I use this stick or do I need to change it? Also the case isn't as deep as I thought, would the PI be okay housed uncased inside?

should point out I planned to get a PI3 for it most likely as loved playing around with it and liked the idea of messing with it wirelessly.

big mean bunny
n00b

Posts: 4

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:29 pm

Postby Jake » Wed Jun 22, 2016 8:15 am

Hi,

If you're using an original Pi B a lot of your issues may be solved by upgrading to the Pi 3, it's considerably faster which helps to smooth a lot of the grumpiness out :)

Could you send me a picture of the stick you're looking at please? Most of the joysticks I've come across are 5 pin Sanwa or 8 pin (2 x 4) HAPP, so yours may be the latter. It might also be a custom unit built specifically for the Hori box

If you check the image below, next to the 5 pin connectors for the Sanwa joystick (top centre) there's a line of 4 x 2 inputs (top right), this is for HAPP style units.

Image

No reason why your Pi won't be happy uncased as long as it doesn't get bashed around during intense fighting games!

-- Jake

Jake
ModMyPi

User avatar

Posts: 1396

Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2015 3:57 pm

Forum Administrator & Technical Support

Postby Dave » Wed Jun 22, 2016 9:44 am

Just to add to Jakes comment. If you look closely at the top right connectors, you can see "AU AD AR AL" these are Analogue Up, Down, Right, Left.

Dave
ModMyPi

User avatar

Posts: 2083

Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:36 am

Forum Administrator & Technical Support

Postby big mean bunny » Wed Jun 22, 2016 10:50 am

Cheers! I will take some photos when I get in and get them uploaded and linked here, it is different to both those though, it's like the 5 pin as in its only 1 row but it's 8 long.

Found this via thee old google - the 8 pin I mentioned is the very top molex connector on that pcb. Apologises if my terminology isn't right btw!

Image

big mean bunny
n00b

Posts: 4

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:29 pm

Postby Jake » Wed Jun 22, 2016 11:37 am

For clarification, you're attempting to switch out that PCB with the zero delay unit right?

If so, that joystick should work, ignore the connector on the PCB, it's the joystick connectors that you need. The joystick is just a series of micro-switches, those connectors should state NO/NC/COM, so you should be able to wire them into the encoder HAPP point connectors.

This of course isn't as easy as plugging in a 5 -way JST connector, but it's do-able!

Hopefully these will help. .

http://www.homebuiltrovs.com/howtojoystickhbridge.html
http://www.koenigs.dk/mame/eng/basicwiringguide.htm

-- Jake

Jake
ModMyPi

User avatar

Posts: 1396

Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2015 3:57 pm

Forum Administrator & Technical Support

Postby big mean bunny » Wed Jun 22, 2016 1:29 pm

Yeah thats right, all ready removed the pcb and everything that was inside bar the stick. Will I be able to do that with the standard zero delay kit? want to order it Saturday when I get paid along with the Pi3 so want to make sure I have everything.

Does anyone use one of those tiny wireless keyboards on there Pi? thinking that might be easier than having to plug a keyboard in all the time?

big mean bunny
n00b

Posts: 4

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:29 pm

Postby big mean bunny » Wed Jun 22, 2016 9:09 pm

Image

right that's mine at current. striped it right back as the buttons need the solder heating off the connectors and cleaning (going to order a new set I think but will try these for now)

There are more views on my photobucket if you flick left or right on it but don't want to spam the forum out with images!

big mean bunny
n00b

Posts: 4

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2016 9:29 pm

Postby Jake » Thu Jun 23, 2016 8:12 am

Hi

Yes, you should be able to swap that PCB out for the Zero delay encoder, they are essentially the same thing

There's a wiring guide for the encoder here:

http://www.modmypi.com/blog/arcade-usb- ... ring-guide

RE Keyboards, you mean these ones?

https://www.modmypi.com/search/?search=rii

I wouldn't want to code on one, but should suit needs for intermittent use on something like retropie

-- Jake

Jake
ModMyPi

User avatar

Posts: 1396

Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2015 3:57 pm

Forum Administrator & Technical Support

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

Board index

The teamDelete all board cookies • All times are UTC [ DST ]